Dubai Deira city center is one of the older parts of the city, where you can experience more traditional aspects of Arab culture, including the heritage of former tribes and their legacy.
You might recall seeing a couple of domes from our sightseeing bus, one adorned with blue and green ornaments. The guide pointed out that “behind the building on your right” is the largest mosque in Dubai, along with the Iranian and Indian mosques. Unfortunately, the bus doesn’t stop here. However, I was eager to see those intricate ornaments up close, and I was told that Dubai Museum is nearby, along with the former Sheikh’s residence and the old Arab Heritage Village…
Dubai Deira City Center
See Bastakiya Dubai
If taking the bus through the busy streets of Dubai Deira city center and Bur Dubai sounds too cumbersome, the Metro is the best option. Al Fahidi station is close by, and with essentials like water, wet wipes, and sunglasses (especially during summer), you can reach Bastakiya in just a few minutes.
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Bastakiya reflects traditional settlements with small houses, wind towers that cool wide courtyards, narrow alleys, old artisan shops in a historical setting, a calligraphy store, a charming Coffee Museum, an impressive white mosque, and an old-style hotel. Here, you’ll also find a section of the old city wall, dating back to the late 19th century.
This district was named after the Bastak region of southern Iran, as traders from there were encouraged to settle in Dubai with tax incentives at the start of the 20th century.
After a pleasant stroll through Bastakiya, with the heat creeping in from above and below, take a break for tea or coffee at an air-conditioned, traditional Arabic café.
From here, it’s just a short walk to the Dubai Museum you’ve been recommended to visit. Housed in the old Al Fahidi Fort, which dates back to 1787, it offers fascinating insights into Dubai’s history and heritage.
Interestingly, those who live and work in Dubai, especially non-Emiratis, often chuckle at the thought of anything in the city being from the 18th century. “The whole country has existed for just over 40 years, and most of what you see is new. Half of the city wasn’t here even a decade ago!” While there might have been a fort in the past, some claim it’s long gone.
(Above, you can click on one of the tours if you’re interested, as it’s easier to explore the old part of the city with local guides and other tourists. However, if you’d prefer to go on your own, here’s a link to audio guides so you don’t miss anything in the Dubai Deira city center. All you need to do is download the app on your phone and grab one of their fairly inexpensive guides.)
Ancient skeletons
However, Al Fahidi Fort did indeed exist, serving as the ruler’s residence and a strategic defense post near the Gulf. It was renovated in 1970 and transformed into a museum.
As I tried to escape a group of excited Japanese tourists, snapping photos left and right, I found myself drawn to the courtyard, where replicas of traditional Arab houses stand. These are made of reed, with a central fireplace, perhaps a bed or a large pillow on the floor.
A spiral staircase leads to the cool basement, where the main exhibition is displayed. Among the artifacts, I was captivated by two skeletons, male and female, dating back to the 3rd millennium BC, uncovered in Jumeira in an eternal embrace.
The entire museum can be explored in about 30 minutes, unless, of course, you have children with you, which might extend your visit!
Old Souk Dubai
After cooling off and catching your breath, it’s time to move on, navigating the heat and humidity. Right next to the Dubai Museum, you’ll find a long mosque, beige on the outside, featuring numerous small domes and a towering minaret.
As you stroll through nearby alleys, you’ll soon find yourself in the Old Souk, an authentic Arabian open market. Salesmen greet you at every stall with warm smiles and offers of tea.
Part of the souk is shaded by wooden beams, while the rest overflows with vibrant stalls selling dresses, scarves, tablecloths, and curtains that sway in the breeze. One charming salesman gently drapes a scarf over your arm, prompting you to stop.
“Welcome! Please come in; we have much more inside.”
“Just browsing, thank you,” you reply.
“No need to buy anything, let me just show you these beautiful scarves. The colors look like they were made just for you!”
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Iranian Mosque
Around the corner, a stunning mosque appears, covered in blue and green tiles, with intricate floral and leaf-shaped designs. The large dome, adorned in the same pattern, dominates the surrounding area of beige and gray buildings, construction sites, and parked cars. This is the Iranian mosque!
Across the small square stands another, a Sunni mosque with elegant domes, beige and beautifully understated.
By this point, even my camera was struggling with the heat, occasionally freezing up. Locals smiled knowingly—I had wandered into an area rarely frequented by tourists, especially in summer.
Abra Station
I checked the sightseeing bus schedule, and one was due to arrive at the Old Souk entrance in a few minutes.
The plan was to hop off after a short ride to visit the Heritage Village. With temperatures nearing 45°C, the thought of that air-conditioned bus was more appealing than walking.
Once I hopped on, still feeling the sun’s burn, the guide reminded us, “We’re at the Abra station, where small wooden taxi boats ferry people from Bur Dubai to the other side—to Dubai Deira city center.” (Tickets are included in your tourist bus fair.)
I made a mental note: “That’s on the agenda for another day, along with the cruise I’m eager to take!”
Next: VISITING THE GRAND MOSQUE
The full Dubai SERIES
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