There’s no surprise there when you learn that on the way from Negotin to Paraćin, you’ll encounter some lovely gems of eastern Serbia – traces of a rich and fascinating history to admire, alongside the region’s lavish natural beauty.
It’s always like that when you explore Serbia! The distance between the two towns is less than 160 km, easily covered in a couple of hours, but there are so many remarkable stops to make along the way that I found myself needing a sleepover. Otherwise, it would have been impossible to experience even a small fraction of the area’s charm!
(Here are a few suggestions for places to stay in Negotin—click the link—but I personally found this ethno village in Boljevac to be a much more charming option.)
Gems of Eastern Serbia
If you’re wondering why I chose to journey from Negotin to Paraćin, it’s because I was traveling from Kladovo (as detailed in a previous article about Iron Gate Serbia), the easternmost town in Serbia, nestled near the borders of Romania and Bulgaria. I decided to take the scenic route toward the central part of the country. Why? Well, it presented the perfect opportunity to discover some of the gems of eastern Serbia: the enchanting wine cellars on Rajac Mountain, a coffee break in Zaječar, a stroll around the Roman Emperor Galerius’ palace, and capturing countless photos of the Grza River’s serene reflections of the surrounding trees. So, let’s begin our journey in Negotin!
FROM BELGRADE: 237 km (take the highway to Požarevac and then via Donji Milanovac)
FROM NIŠ: 150 km (the road to Svrljig and Zaječar)
Upon reaching Negotin, it’s immediately apparent that you’ve entered the town’s vibrant heart. A charming avenue lined with dense trees leads to a small parking area, followed by the town square and a lively pedestrian street. Driving through the downtown area, I noticed the inviting pedestrian pathways nestled between the buildings. One quaint street after another, and I found a parking spot in the shade—perfect for starting my walk.
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As I stepped onto the broad street adorned with café terraces and boutique storefronts, I was captivated by the intricate building decorations. White plaster ornaments gracefully hung from the colorful facades, adding an air of timeless elegance. To one side stood a church, and to the other, a sprawling park. Locals were chatting and laughing in the cafés, enjoying the sunny day. And there, on the right, proudly stood the monument to Hajduk Veljko, a heroic figure of Serbian history, gazing out over the bustling streets below.
Negotin Serbia
The town almost lies between three countries – Serbia, Romania and Bulgaria. The area consists of 39 settlements, while the population of the town itself is about 19,000. Traditionally, this is the town of wine, music and heroes, and for those interested in history and culture, the Krajina Museum is a must. There are three parts of the museum complex – the Archaeology Museum, Mokranjac’s House and Hajduk Veljko Museum.
Hajduk Veljko Petrović was Serbian army general who was responsible for the eastern border of the country during the Turkish rule. The famous 19th-century Serbian ruler Karađorđe gave him authority to build the fortification of the town. That is how Negotin became important in securing the border against the army of Turks.
Legend has it that during the defense of the fortification in 1813, Veljko ordered all metal objects, including household items, to be melted down for ammunition. He even fired coins from cannons, the stories say. Tragically, Veljko was killed that same year, but his enduring words, “I would rather give up my head than the Serbian land,” are engraved on his statue in Negotin.
Negotin is also the birthplace of significant Serbian figures, such as composer Stevan Stojanović Mokranjac and physicist Đorđe Stanojević. Stanojević was instrumental in illuminating Belgrade with electric lighting in the 19th century. A close friend of Nikola Tesla, he was also the visionary behind Serbia’s first hydroelectric power plant projects. (See the post about Užice Serbia.)
Understanding such a rich historical tapestry, you can’t help but feel intrigued by the town and its surroundings. Near the fountain, in front of a pastel-colored pharmacy building, I encountered a curious local who was drawn to my camera.
“Good day, welcome! Are you a journalist? I’m a real celebrity here, you know.”
With a firm handshake and a cascade of questions, he bid me farewell with a smile, leaving me feeling like we’d been old friends.
But I had to continue my journey. It’s said that 1,700 hectares of the Negotin area are covered with vineyards, and the winemaking tradition here spans over seven centuries. I was determined to uncover more gems of eastern Serbia—starting with wine.
Rajac Wine Cellars
In the heart of eastern Serbia lies Rajac, a village renowned for its unique “pimnice”, houses built explicitly for grape cultivation and winemaking. Constructed from stone or wood, with walls as thick as 60 cm, these structures are a rare testament to centuries-old vinicultural traditions. While such villages have largely disappeared, Rajac’s Pimnice have endured.
Dating back to the 18th century, the 270 stone wine cellars of Rajac are scattered around a central fountain. The cellars are partially buried to maintain consistent temperatures year-round. Above, small rooms provided shelter for owners during the harvest season.
Reaching Rajac from Negotin involves a 25-kilometer drive. While the road is manageable, it’s worth noting that I encountered some construction work along the way—piles of dirt and a few workers repairing the road. At one point, I spotted a lone worker toiling in the sweltering heat, isolated in the landscape…
Eventually, I reached a crossroads—turn left for Rajac, or continue toward the Bulgarian border. (This is a good spot to check your phone, as Bulgarian roaming charges can creep in!) The road narrowed, making it challenging for two cars to pass, but the scenery was enchanting: rolling vineyards, lush treetops, and a sense of solitude.
A sign finally appeared, indicating two more kilometers through the woods. At the summit, I found myself surrounded by stone houses, their beige walls and dark rooftops adorned with green climbing plants. Walking through the village was like stepping into a time capsule. If a pimnica is open—and many are—you can peek inside the cellars, marvel at the enormous wine barrels, and chat with the owners. Sampling their wines is a must, and you might leave with a bottle or two.
From Rajac, my journey led me toward Zaječar. Locals assured me I didn’t need to return to Negotin, as I could follow a route along the Timok River. Driving parallel to the Bulgarian border felt surreal, with stunning vistas on both sides. Serbia stretched out to my right, while Bulgaria loomed to the left. At Šipikovo, a village just 400 meters from the border, I paused to admire its rustic charm.
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Many villages in this area appear deserted, with residents having moved abroad or to larger towns. Šipikovo, with only 200 houses and a population of 500, felt like a movie set. Finding someone to ask for directions might be a challenge here.
The road itself was pleasant, winding through serene landscapes. At one point, I noticed a pheasant darting across the path, followed by a chicken. Moments later, a small pile on the road began to move—a snake! Startled but unscathed, it raised its head defensively before retreating into the bushes. Such encounters remind you of nature’s resilience, even in the smallest creatures.
Zaječar Serbia
The town is located in the heart of the Timok region, 250 kilometers from Belgrade and just 11 kilometers from the Bulgarian border. Zaječar was first mentioned in Turkish documents in 1466, and today it is home to a population of about 59,000.
It is a modern, clean town known for its thermal waters (Gamzigrad Spa), rich cultural heritage, and notable residents such as publicist Svetozar Marković, politician Nikola Pašić, and renowned actor Zoran Radmilović. The town also hosts famous events ranging from theater performances to the legendary rock festival Gitarijada.
The first thing I noticed upon entering the town were its vivid colors. As I parked in the center and began to explore, I was struck by the rose-colored building across from the yellow courthouse, with the orange-hued museum situated right next to it.
The town’s park was lush and green, adorned with blooming flowers and buzzing with life. Children played near the square’s fountain, while people relaxed at a pleasant restaurant terrace. A few buildings were adorned with advertisements for Zaječar’s famous beer—no surprises there!
Strolling further, I discovered the town’s more traditional sections, including intriguing graffiti. I took a break for lunch and coffee, choosing from one of the many inviting cafés in the town center. While spreading out my map on the table (I still like to use the old-fashioned maps sometimes besides the navigation apps), I was told to follow the main road past the traffic light. After driving for another 10 kilometers, I was to reach the next gem of eastern Serbia: the palace of a Roman emperor!
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Felix Romuliana Serbia
The Felix Romuliana complex, located in Gamzigrad, is one of the most remarkable gems of eastern Serbia. Built in the 3rd and 4th centuries, this royal palace was dedicated to Emperor Galerius’s mother, Romula. Both mother and son were laid to rest in a mausoleum on Magura Hill, overlooking the site.
Galerius, born in the Timok region, later became a Roman emperor. Though his primary palace was in Thessaloniki, Greece, he constructed this grand estate in his birthplace to honor his mother. The complex featured a royal villa, temples, altars, and two mausoleums, all richly adorned with intricate wall paintings, mosaics, and geometric designs.
Following invasions by the Goths and Huns, the site transitioned into a Byzantine settlement and later a Slavic village during the 11th century. Today, it is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and can be visited year-round.
The road to Felix Romuliana is well-marked, requiring a 3-kilometer uphill drive from the main road. Upon arrival, I immediately understood why Galerius chose this location. Sitting on the terrace of such a luxurious palace amidst massive marble columns, one could admire a breathtaking panorama of green hills.
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The remains of the round towers flanking the gate are awe-inspiring, as if inviting you to journey back 17 centuries. The red brick construction reminded me of Diana, the Roman fortress near the town of Kladovo (which I covered in a previous post about the Roman heritage along the Iron Gate Serbia).
Every visit to Felix Romuliana leaves me with countless photographs of its remarkable brickwork and mosaics. Despite their understated elegance, these elements feel timeless.
Strolling among the columns, catching glimpses of the fountain, and climbing the steps to the palace chambers, one can vividly imagine the vibrant life that once animated this extraordinary place.
Grza Serbia
Nestled on the slopes of the Kučaj mountains lies the enchanting Grza River Springs, a true gem of eastern Serbia. This small river is renowned for its breathtaking natural surroundings, pristine air, and an incredible diversity of flora and fauna. Designated as a Monument of Nature, the area includes river springs, serene lakes that attract fishermen with their abundance of trout, and numerous scenic trails.
The springs are located just 3 kilometers off the main road. Along the way, you’ll find a hotel, a cozy restaurant, and a mountain lodge catering to hikers and nature lovers alike.
Though everything feels relatively close here due to the well-maintained roads, I didn’t manage to stop by the Gamzigrad Spa, which is nearby. If you’re in the area, take a detour from the main road when you spot the sign and enjoy a pleasant stroll around. As for me, I continued driving past Boljevac village and the iconic Rtanj mountain. (Of course, I waved at the mountain and promised myself a proper visit someday. It seems Rtanj always tempts me with its small cloud that clings to its peak. “Next time! Next time!” I told myself.)
Anyway, when driving from the Gamzigrad site, keep an eye on the road after about 5 kilometers—you’ll spot the sign for Grza Springs. My initial discovery of the place was entirely by chance. I noticed the hotel sign first and turned off the road, curious about what lay beyond. Little did I know, I was about to stumble upon one of the most remarkable gems of eastern Serbia! I had heard of the Grza River but wasn’t even sure of its exact location.
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At the hotel, I asked for directions and was told to drive another 3 kilometers straight ahead to reach the springs. Intrigued, I continued onward but soon found myself detouring over a small bridge by a tranquil lake, veering left and heading up into the mountains. (“I wonder what’s up there?” I thought.) The road snaked through dense woods, sunlight streaming through the treetops, as it curved up and down. It was precisely the kind of mountain road I love.
However, with no clear idea of where I was headed and no one around to ask, I eventually decided to turn back. (“Next time, I’ll come with more info and more time!”) Maneuvering the car around on the narrow forest road, I made my way back to the river.
Upon reaching the marked parking lot, I set off on foot along one of the trails. And what a sight awaited me! The small river meandered through rocks and paused in two crystalline lakes, their shallow waters mirroring the treetops in stunning clarity. I couldn’t resist taking countless photos.
The trail led uphill, with resting spots on both sides, a quaint bridge, a sign pointing to a small cave, and finally—the spring itself. Water gushed dramatically from the rock, tumbling over moss-covered stones and spreading wide before cascading beneath the bridge. The scene was nothing short of magical, an unexpected reward for my spontaneous detour.
Later, after another 20 kilometers, I reached the highway at Paraćin. Yet, even as I drove away, I remained captivated by the natural splendor of the Grza Springs—a hidden jewel in the treasure trove that is eastern Serbia.
How is it that no one ever told me about this incredible place before?
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18 responses
I lived in the Balkans for several years, and Serbia is one of my favorite countries. I haven’t visited these places though, I’m bookmarking this post for a future trip!
Hey, really? You probably lived in Belgrade, right?
Anyway, you have some idea of what I’m talking about here if you know Serbia. Thanks, Giulia! 🙂
What lovely photos you took – Serbia is definitely on my bucket list! I love how you included fun stories and quotes from the locals in your piece.
Well, those are my glimpses from the road. Every trip has them. Hence the name of the blog, by the way. 😉
So glad you like the photos, thank you! <3
I’ve heard so many great things about traveling through Serbia and this post has added to that. The negotin area looks incredible and as you say it’s the same throughout Serbia. I think this could be my next destination after my Portuguese adventure
Oh, how lovely! I’d love to go to Portugal again soon. 🙂
Sure, there’s a direct flight from Lisbon to Belgrade. You’ll be in Serbia in no time. Hope you’ll find these posts helpful. Have a great time!
Never heard of these places. Seems like the locals are friendly. Including the local celebrity. The history is cool. The guy gave his life for his land.
There are lots of places in Serbia that are still a “hidden” gem. Foreign tourists usually come to Belgrade and Novi Sad, spending a day or two out of the cities. But there’s so much to see in the country! People are friendly and it’s not expensive. Pretty good destination to explore. 🙂
This is a part of the world that I know nothing about. The scenery is beautiful. I would love to see the pinnice. There are so nay things that have disappeared over time I find it fascinating to explore the history of an area when I visit.
If you like history, you’d love this part of Europe. You will stumble upon some interesting history tale or a place everywhere you go in Serbia.
I felt like a kid sometimes with my eyes wide open and my jaw down, listening to stories about heroes, but about nature fairies as well. 😀
Those plaster ornaments are really impressive. Good to know the town is home to 2 great personalities. With vineyards all around the place must be scenic.
Lovely surroundings, really! It’s a pity though that a lot of people left villages in the area. They moved to towns. Even Negotin itself is not populated as it used to be. A lot of inhabitants work abroad nowadays.
I’ve never been to eastern Serbia. I would love to visit some day. Negotin looks like such a charming town. It’s got everything I like, wine, music and history. Looks like you had quite an adventure finding Grza Springs.
Oh yes, Grza river was such a great surprise! It’s so fascinating to turn from the road out of curiosity and to be welcomed by such amazing colors of nature. <3
Thank you, Shruti. If you get to this part of Europe some day, this is what you may expect to see. 🙂
We were in Serbia for a week and I can say that it was way too little time. There are so many hidden gems to explore there.
It’s always like that when one travels, right! There’s never enough time.
Oh well, we just need to go back sometime! 😀
I’ve only been to Belgrade. But I recently had some Serbian wine that was quite nice, and it did make me want to go back to visit some of the wine making areas.
There are lots of those in the country. You can easily find a good winery with domestic and non expensive wines.
Well, next time, right! 🙂 Thanks!