Active holiday on Tara Serbia

One simply has to admire the breathtaking landscapes of Tara Serbia when visiting the country. But did you know there are ways to experience even more, to truly immerse yourself and connect with its lavish nature? For all of you who love an active holiday, pay attention—you’re in for a real adventure: horse riding, cycling, canyoning, and paddling down the Drina River!

FROM BELGRADE: About 180 km

FROM NIŠ: About 300 km

This time (unlike the previous time I visited Tara Mountain), I came from Belgrade via Valjevo and Debelo Brdo (Fat Hill in Serbian). It’s not very far—at least, not up to Debelo Brdo. After that, however, there are countless curves and serpentines until you descend into Rogačica.

Still, the route gave me the opportunity to visit the Podrinje Gate observation deck. It was sunny, off-season (late April, to be exact), so I could admire the spectacular view all by myself, in complete silence. The trees weren’t fully green yet, but the hills already appeared lush and inviting.

Active Holiday on Tara Serbia

This was merely a preview of what awaited me on Tara Serbia. Even though I visited last summer and managed to see quite a bit, Tara National Park is a vast area with so much to offer that it’s impossible to do everything in one short trip. So, take your time, savor the experience—you can always return for more.

Tara National Park Viewpoints

The park spans 25,000 hectares and boasts one of the richest ecosystems in Europe in terms of species diversity. It’s famous for the endemic Pančić (or Serbian) Spruce, its large population of brown bears, and the Pančić Grasshopper. The most popular viewpoints include Banjska Stena, Bilješka Stena, Crnjeskovo, Sokolarica, Sjenič, Osluša, Ravna Stjena, and Janjač.

I visited some of these viewpoints earlier (check out my previous Tara Mountain post). This time, our first stop was the Crnjeskovo observation deck, not far from the Kaluđerske Bare settlement. A new fence had been installed, made of light-colored wood that contrasted beautifully with the green surroundings. Although it was slightly misty, the view was still magnificent.

Our guide from the travel agency Tara Tours, Neđo, was walking ahead of me. “From here, you can see the Rača Gorge,” he said, “along with the Drina Valley and the town of Bajina Bašta.” Coming out of the gorge lies the 13th-century Rača Monastery, built by the Serbian King Dragutin Nemanjić. The rock called Krstača, with the cross at the top, marks the location of caves where monks once copied ancient manuscripts. This observation deck is actually on land belonging to the monastery. “We’ll talk more about that when we reach the Lađevac Spring,” Neđo added.

After snapping numerous photos, we sat down for a short break. Two couples arrived after us, visibly thrilled with the view as they approached the fence. It felt like the perfect moment to leave the spot for others to enjoy in peace. “And now, we’re off to see the horses,” Neđo announced.

 

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On a hill nearby, a few horses were grazing, completely unbothered by our presence. Apart from the soft sound of the wind, it was perfectly quiet. Not far from here lies the Equestrian Club Dora, established in 2006. It’s a charming spot: an old pine tree stands in the middle, surrounded by tables and benches, with stables on either side and a gorgeous view of the winding Tara hills through the trees. If you’ve never tried horseback riding, this is the perfect place to start. You can take lessons and explore Tara’s trails with a local guide. Those who have ventured through the hills on horseback often say there’s no better way to connect with nature.

At the equestrian club, they’ll tell you about the scientifically proven benefits of horseback riding. Horses and dolphins are known for their extraordinary positive impact on human health and development. Horse riding improves blood circulation in the lower body, reduces stress, and enhances posture. It also strengthens muscles and the spine, making it especially beneficial for children. Beyond all this, just imagine riding through coniferous and beech forests, across flower-filled meadows, and alongside crystal-clear springs and streams—what better way to truly experience Tara Serbia?

As lunchtime approached, we decided to take a break, and what better place for that than the local restaurant “Kurta”? The owners—a whole family—were busy preparing for the May 1st holiday crowds. The restaurant, named after the grandfather, exudes a warm, homely atmosphere.

For those intrigued by the rally drivers’ photos hanging on the walls, here’s a bit of history. The family first opened a small store in 1988 when there was no similar place outside Bajina Bašta. Six years later, they expanded into a restaurant. Located along the famous YU Rally Route, the restaurant became a favorite stop for drivers, their families, and friends. The laid-back atmosphere was such that patrons would sometimes help themselves to drinks at the bar or even assist the waitress in setting tables. Over time, rally drivers began leaving signed photos, which the family lovingly framed and displayed.

I gazed at those photos before turning back to our table, where we were served a feast of homemade veal under the bell, fresh lettuce, and piping-hot buns straight from the oven. Of course, we couldn’t resist ordering some kaymak to go with it. One must take a break from an active holiday in Tara, and with food like this, it’s worth every second.

 

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Lađevac Spring

This mineral spring boasts an average water temperature of 15 to 18 degrees Celsius. It gushes out an impressive 50 liters of water per second and is believed to have healing properties, particularly for skin and eye conditions. Lađevac can be reached via a 2-kilometer trail starting from the Rača Monastery, situated at the entrance of the Rača River Gorge.

Rača Monastery was no longer on my bucket list, as I had visited it last year and seen the memorial dedicated to the monk Hadži-Melentije. Given the bad weather on that occasion, I had to skip the walk to the spring. This time, however, I finally had the chance to complete the experience. The monastery, which dates back to the 13th century, played a significant role in history. During the 17th century, the renowned Rača Copying School was highly active just a 40-minute walk from the monastery, near the Lađevac Spring.

Legend has it that in the 17th century, Hadži-Melentije sought permission from the sultan in Istanbul to rebuild the monastery. Supposedly, he placed his finger on a map and declared that the monks could claim all the territory his finger covered. This bold move secured them nearly 1,000 hectares of land. It’s one of the reasons why Crnjeskovo Observation Deck, as I mentioned earlier, also belongs to the monastery’s domain. The same history explains the intriguing name of the settlement Kaluđerske Bare (Monks’ Ponds in Serbian).

As captivating as the monastery’s history is, it all fades away once you reach Lađevac Spring. Crossing a small bridge over the Rača River, we climbed narrow stone steps from one level to the next. The spring doesn’t appear particularly powerful at first glance, but it leaves you speechless as it tumbles down in countless streams, cascading over rocks and moss, before roaring into the Rača River below.

On our way back to Bajina Bašta, Neđo shared an interesting tidbit about the locals living in the villages around the monastery. They still produce limestone, extracting 10 to 15 tons of stone from the mountain and heating it in specialized ovens. The cooled limestone is then treated in special baths, continuing a traditional craft that dates back generations.

Once back in town, our first stop was the Tara Tours office. Last year, I had the pleasure of taking a breathtaking boat ride from Perućac Lake to Višegrad in Bosnia, through the stunning Drina Canyon. It was then that I first met Goran Glišić, the owner, and Neđo, our guide. This time, we stopped by to say hello to Milica, another team member I had only spoken to on the phone. The agency has expanded its offerings this year, organizing team-building activities, diverse tours, and even personalized sightseeing adventures in Tara Serbia.

 

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Later, over coffee with Marija from Tara National Park and Miloje from the Green Bear, we discussed plans for the next day. The highlight? We were going to paddle down the enchanting Drina River!

Stand-Up Paddling (SUP)

This board paddling has become extremely popular over the years since the sport is accessible to everyone. It doesn’t require any special level of fitness, and the technique is easy to master. SUP has a positive impact on health—it improves balance, endurance, strength, and the condition of our muscles. Gliding across the water’s surface brings a closer connection to the river or lake than you could ever experience in a kayak or boat.

So, you’ve come to Tara Serbia, and you’re eager to immerse yourself in this breathtaking nature. You want your own slow adventure, an active holiday that you’ll remember. What better way to do it than with SUP! I had been wanting to try this for some time, even though I couldn’t imagine my first attempt being on the fast-flowing Drina River in late April. It wasn’t particularly warm, and the river was still quite cold. Still, Miloje assured me it would be an incredible adventure, even showing me video clips from last year’s international championship in Austria. There, 34 teams from 17 countries competed, and Serbia impressively placed sixth, even though it was the country’s first time participating.

It all sounded exciting, but when you step onto a board that wobbles with every move, you’re not entirely sure this is a good idea. But I was determined to try—Drina in April or not!

 

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The group from Poland scheduled for that morning postponed their tour, so Miloje took two participants from Bosnia (Jasmina and Edo) and me to the Perućac dam. We were each given diving suits (in case we fell in, which they claimed was inevitable for first-timers), paddles, and boards. First, you kneel on the board and then stand up. It takes some time to adjust and learn to steer the board in the right direction, but once you get the hang of it, paddling becomes a joy!

We also had the chance to see the 10-meter waterfall of the Vrelo River up close. Its roar was so loud we could barely hear each other, and my board wandered off course a few times. The longer you paddle down the river, the more you soak in the beauty of the surroundings. Drina flows calmly in some areas and becomes fast and rough in others. Nevertheless, you just have to go with the flow—literally!

We stopped for a break at a small bay. The diving suits became too hot under the sun, so we decided to cool off in the icy Drina. (I’ll take a moment to brag: Jasmina and I didn’t fall off our boards even once, while Edo had enough falls for all of us!) Miloje showed us how to paddle faster, which I particularly enjoyed—great for burning off the calories from the “ledena kocka” cake we devoured the night before.

Before you know it, you’ve paddled 15 kilometers—from Perućac dam to the famous House on the Rock—in about three hours. The current gets a bit stronger near the House, but it’s manageable. Considering that this part of Tara Serbia is increasingly popular among Chinese tourists, it wasn’t surprising to see a group snapping pictures of the House. When we arrived, we became their new focus. Inspired by us, some even jumped into the cold Drina to cool off. The adventure concluded with a group photo and posing for dozens of tourists.

Over coffee by the river, we reflected on the SUP adventure. Miloje mentioned that stand-up paddling is gaining popularity, with people often visiting just for a day to paddle on the Drina. He also shared that he once paddled from Perućac Lake to Višegrad (a 52-kilometer journey), which turned into a two-day adventure with camping in the canyon. He joked that next time, he’d take me canyoning through the Rača River gorge, a tour that lasts 4–5 hours. With Green Bear, you can also try abseiling from the Sokolarica viewpoint, among other activities.

Since Jasmina and Edo wanted to visit the Banjska Stena viewpoint (see the previous Tara Mountain post), we all went together, stopping at the nearby settlement of Mitrovac along the way.

 

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There’s something magical about Banjska Stena. No matter how many times you’ve been there, you can’t resist taking “just one more” photo because “the light is now perfect” or “those clouds look surreal today.” You can reach Banjska Stena by bike (Tara National Park offers bike rentals and numerous trails), on foot, or by car—parking is about 800 meters from the viewpoint.

The day flew by, and we rushed to another hill called Predov Krst, located 40 kilometers from Banjska Stena. To avoid getting car sick on the winding roads, I opted to drive. We descended to Perućac Lake and then headed to Predov Krst and the Bilješka Stena viewpoint. The narrow road was scenic, with a few small tunnels, leading us deep into the woods. Near the viewpoint, we found an old shack that served as a movie set for a popular Serbian film.

Standing at the viewpoint, the surreal colors of the hills across the canyon left me in awe. Shrouded in mist and clouds, the scene looked like a painting—or as if someone had applied an Instagram filter. This is how the enhanced natural beauty of Tara Serbia looks in real life.

As night fell, we returned to Bajina Bašta and dined at the Dve Lipe restaurant. I tried “kalindžo,” a stew made with lamb liver, and it was delicious.

The restaurant and my accommodation, Drinski Konaci, were the perfect choices. Waking up to a terrace overlooking the iconic House on the Rock was pure bliss. Add to that a traditional breakfast featuring “kačamak” with ground white cheese and kaymak—an experience to remember. (For more about the accommodation, see the previous post about Tara Mountain.)

Before heading back to Belgrade, I met Goran from Tara Tours. As we chatted about my time in Bajina Bašta, I couldn’t help but smile when overhearing the waitress offer “a tiny little quince with coffee” (quince being a strong traditional rakija made from the fruit). The menu even featured a dish called, when translated, “a tiny little humongous head of lamb.”

I couldn’t resist one last slice of “ledena kocka” cake before leaving, hoping I wouldn’t regret it while navigating the curves of Debelo Brdo on my way home!

Next: SLOW ADVENTURE IN SOKOBANJA SERBIA

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