Things to do in Sokobanja Serbia

Did you know that you can cycle on Ozren Mountain, canoe across Bovan Lake, climb the ancient Sokograd fortress, and then relax at the beach? Or that you can grind your own flour to bake buns, or ride a quad bike with breathtaking views of Rtanj Mountain?

FROM BELGRADE: 230 km

FROM NIŠ: 60 km

Sokobanja Serbia is renowned for its medical and health tourism, but it offers so much more for those who love slow adventure. Make sure to check out what I experienced here—riding a horse and a quad, soaking in a traditional Turkish hammam, and scaling the fortress walls. With all the fresh air and delicious traditional food, what more could one ask for?

Sokobanja Serbia

Sokobanja is nestled in a picturesque valley at an altitude of 400 meters, surrounded by stunning mountains like Ozren, Rtanj, and Devica. This region enjoys an incredible lack of misty days and boasts no air or water pollution. Thanks to colliding winds, it’s a true oasis of clean and fresh air. Adding to its allure are the thermo-mineral springs, famous for aiding in the treatment of rheumatism and post-traumatic conditions.

The municipality has a population of 16,000, with the town itself home to about 8,500 people. I visited in mid-June when the tourism season was at its peak.

The town promenade stretches from the Homeland Museum to the municipality building. Along the way, you’ll pass the Church of the Holy Transfiguration of God, built in 1892, and a school from 1894, as well as the iconic central Amam.

Things to do in Sokobanja Serbia

Built by the Turks in the 15th century over the remains of Roman baths, this hammam is steeped in history. The women’s hammam floor still features the original tiles, and two of Sokobanja’s seven springs are located here. In 1834, Serbian ruler Miloš Obrenović restored the baths, and it remains the only operational hammam in Serbia. Miloš even built a private bath that same year, complete with a small window overlooking the women’s hammam.

The pride of Sokobanja Serbia’s history is evident in a written order from June 1837, in which Miloš directed that a soldier be sent to the spa for treatment, stating he should be provided with “bread and salt, and one candle.”

Walking into this ancient building, under its domes and within its centuries-old walls, then stepping into the warm thermal water, it becomes clear why this hammam has endured through the ages.

When I visited, I had the bath all to myself, while another guest enjoyed a massage in the adjacent room and a few others waited for their turn in the natural inhalatorium. It’s fascinating that even today, people wait in line for these baths, much like the Romans, Turks, and even Miloš himself once did.

 

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Across the street stands the Milošev Konak, now a restaurant, but built on the same spot as the original administrative center Miloš used when he relocated his government here for three months. Whether you dine here or enjoy a snack at the Irish Pub next door, you’ll be treated to a wonderful view of the Amam.

Further down the promenade lies the Moravica Bridge. If you enjoy jogging or walking, the expansive park nearby is perfect for a morning workout. That’s exactly what I did on my first morning—laced up my sneakers and ran toward the park. During summer, Sokobanja’s beaches are a must-visit. Located near the park, the water may be chilly (around 18–19°C), but the stunning scenery makes it worthwhile. Picture lush green forests, a small gorge with grayish banks, and a bright blue sky—it’s a feast for the senses

I visited several times, snapping photos of colorful pebbles and exploring Sokobanja’s famous beaches, Župan and 6 Kace. Marija, from the Tourism Organization, showed me the six natural baths that inspired the name of the latter beach.

Curious about the name of the other beach? Well, that’s a story worth telling—a Serbian version of Romeo and Juliet I heard on my way to Sokograd.

 

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Lepterija and Sokograd

This is the most visited picnic region, located within the area of the outstanding natural features known as Lepterija-Sokograd, just two kilometers from the center of Sokobanja Serbia. Here, you’ll find the Church of the Birth of the Holy Mother and the fascinating phenomenon of the Holy Virgin in the Rock. Following the forest paths, you can reach the Popovica Viewpoint and the medieval fortress.

Sokograd was built at the end of the 13th century on the remains of a Roman fortress that dates back to the 4th–6th centuries AD. It is believed that the town existed during the reign of the great Serbian leader Stefan Nemanja. The fortress was eventually destroyed in 1413.

Now, listen to this! Once upon a time, there lived a fair maiden named Lepterija, the daughter of Sokograd’s master, and Župan, the son of another town’s ruler. Unfortunately, the two families were sworn enemies. When these young lovers decided to elope, her father discovered their plan and sent his men after her. Tragically, Lepterija was captured and put to death to prevent her from marrying the family’s rival. Župan, on his way to meet her, learned of her fate and threw himself off a cliff into the Moravica River. The spot where he drowned now bears his name, while the entire picnic area is named after Lepterija.

Sonja, from the local tourism organization, shared this story as we walked from the center. The trail is two kilometers long and goes uphill, but it’s definitely worth it. After all, that’s why you came here—to immerse yourself in a slow adventure amidst natural beauty. Along the way, there’s a lovely view of Rtanj Mountain and the town.

We crossed the Moravica Gorge bridge and turned left toward the Holy Virgin in the Rock. There are many legends explaining how and when the Holy Virgin’s image appeared in the rock, but this phenomenon has drawn pilgrims for centuries, who leave offerings such as icons, candles, and small personal items. There’s even a woman’s hat perched at the top. Don’t forget to take in the view behind you while climbing up, but be cautious on the descent as the rocks can be slippery.

 

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Following the trail along the Moravica Gorge is an absolute delight. The shaded path runs alongside the crystal-clear river, offering peaceful surroundings. There are also marked spots along the way, such as the site where Serbian Nobel Prize winner Ivo Andrić sought refuge during World War II, and a spring where visitors, at certain times of the year, toss a coin and make a wish. The water here is drinkable, straight from the spring. (I filled my small bottle after returning from Sokograd, exhausted, sweaty, and thirsty. I don’t know if it was just the moment, but the water tasted amazing!)

The path to the fortress is narrow and steep, leading to ancient stairs, imposing walls climbing the hill, a rectangular tower, and more steps… But the view from the top is spectacular!

 

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Some visitors preferred to stay beneath the walls due to the steep incline and heat, but only those who made it to the top were rewarded with the breathtaking panorama. It felt like a scene straight out of Game of Thrones! Bright green hills stretched endlessly around me, while I stood atop the gray rock, which had endured through centuries and been trodden by the inhabitants of what was once a vibrant city.

Sesalac Cave

The Sesalac Cave is located in the village of Sesalac, 19 kilometers from Sokobanja Serbia. A 200-meter-long visitor trail takes you inside, where you’ll encounter unique cave formations and a small underground river. In front of the cave, there’s a picnic area, and an artificial lake is nearby.

On our way to Sesalac, we stopped in the village of Vrelo-Istoci, at the foot of Device Mountain. This is where the spring of the Moravica River is located. The spring is considered a natural phenomenon due to its broad, spilled-river-like appearance. Visitors can also stop by the St. Elijah Church, which holds a fascinating history: Princess Persida Karađorđević, upon seeing locals gathered around a stone cross in the 19th century, donated her necklace of 18 gold ducats to fund the construction of the church on this very spot.

Though the visitor trail inside the cave isn’t very long, there’s plenty to admire, including striking cave formations and a few bats. You’ll walk through cool, low corridors, a welcome escape from the summer heat outside. Adjacent to the picnic area is the Pečura restaurant terrace. Goran and Nataša Simonović guided us through the cave and later treated us to refreshments at one of their tables. They’ve been welcoming guests for three years now, serving traditional dishes, a few of which we were lucky enough to try. They also host events like the popular stew-cooking competition held in July.

I even had the chance to ride a quad bike to the top of the hill. Peđa told me how his father, Vojkan Marković, began building a bungalow camp here in 2017. The family resides in Sweden, but Peđa eagerly anticipates returning once the camp opens. The first visitors were expected in 2020, with several bungalows ready for overnight stays on the serene hilltop, surrounded by lush greenery. Quads are also available for exploring, even for reaching Vrmdža Lake on Rtanj Mountain, about 30 kilometers away.

 

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If you’ve never ridden a quad bike, don’t worry—it’s surprisingly easy. As the gravel road curves uphill, the quad seems to steer itself! It’s easy to control, though. Peđa remarked that “these roads feel like they were made for quads.” At the top of the hill, you’re greeted by a stunning sight: a flat, lush meadow with a gorgeous view of Rtanj.

Vrmdža Village

This charming village lies at the foot of Rtanj mountain and serves as a prime example of rural development. Over the past few years, 32 new households have settled here, mostly composed of highly educated individuals and freelancers who have no family ties to the area. Vrmdža was first mentioned as a Roman fort defending the imperial road, with Byzantine settlers arriving in the 14th century.

Today, only remnants of walls remain on the cliff where the old Vrmdža, or Latin Town, once stood. A notable site is Vrmdža Lake, the only natural lake in Sokobanja, Serbia. From the lake, you’ll admire the stunning view of Rtanj’s pyramidal peak reflected in the water.

If you have time, stop by the Homeland Museum for a spectacular view of the entire valley. Nearby, there’s a lovely viewpoint where you can take a break and soak in the surroundings.

Adventurous visitors can explore the cliffs popular for free climbing. On the way to the lake, don’t miss the Watermill Restaurant, where you can purchase freshly milled wheat, buckwheat, or corn flour.

Bovan Lake Serbia

Bovan Lake is an artificial reservoir created in 1977 with a dam built on the Moravica River. Located just 10 kilometers from Sokobanja, the lake stretches 8 kilometers long and reaches a maximum depth of 50 meters. Its beaches attract sun-seekers, while picnicking and fishing are also popular activities here.

Canoes frequently glide across the water, and this is where the sailing boat regatta takes place. I was fortunate to be shown around by Darko, a passionate fisherman and cyclist. As we passed rows of fishermen’s tents, Darko reminisced about catching perch here in the 1990s—a species that is now less common. Even so, the lake remains abundant with whitefish, along with the occasional catfish or pike.

Bird enthusiasts will find Bovan Lake a haven for birdwatching.

“Sometimes, early in the morning, we see deer or otters swimming to the other shore,” Darko shared, mentioning that the Sokobanja Ecology Society was recently established.

Cyclists will enjoy the 35-kilometer bike trail that circles the lake. The route includes crossing the dam and two small rivers on the far shore, with a macadam road that adds a rustic charm to the ride.

Before diving further into cycling in Sokobanja Serbia, I must mention the chance to learn traditional Serbian cooking here. At Hacienda Gane, I was warmly welcomed by Danijela and Gane, who moved from Niš to open their charming retreat in Trubarevac village. The hacienda offers just three rooms for now, along with homemade cooking, natural juices, and jams. They prepare authentic pie crusts and bake under the bell, following old Serbian recipes.

Gane, they say, always adds “a few secret ingredients” that make the dishes exceptionally delicious. As I helped prepare stuffed peppers using Gane’s recipe, they recounted how the Thai ambassador once enjoyed their traditional mućkalica (a stew of barbecued meat and vegetables). “He came back the next year with the Japanese ambassador and even had mućkalica for breakfast!” they said.

Ozren Meadows

Declared a protected area in 1973, the Nature Park Ozren Meadows stretches between the Ozren and Devica mountains and is home to 22 protected herb species. It’s also famous for the Ripaljka waterfall, the first officially declared natural monument in Serbia, recognized in 1948.

Cycling enthusiasts can explore a total of 115.5 kilometers of trails across Sokobanja, including a scenic 20-kilometer track through Ozren. I had the chance to meet Brigita and Marko, avid cyclists, who explained that most unpaved roads in the area are perfect for mountain biking. If riding through forested trails at an altitude of about 680 meters sounds appealing, this is the place for you. Information and bike rentals are available at the Tourism Organization office.

Ljubinko, the head of the local Tourism Organization, guided me through Kalinovica in Ozren’s picnic area. Here, we discovered a serene glade with a spring and a unique twin sequoia tree growing from a single root. We also visited Ethno Park Kalinovica, where Ljubinko explained how the “negative ions in the air promote overall human well-being.”

To my surprise, our hosts Dragan and Milan greeted us with a white horse named Princess.

Horse lovers will be thrilled to know that, in addition to cycling and hiking, they can enjoy horseback riding here. Vesna, our host at the Ethno Park, served delicious traditional dishes while Dragan introduced me to Ana, a friendly donkey who didn’t mind taking a selfie with me. (If you’ve been following my Instagram stories, you’ve likely seen the now-famous donkey selfie.)

And as for my horseback riding experience? Let’s just say it was my first attempt, and while Princess was patient, I still needed a chair to get on!

Watermills of Grudonjci

The Ethno Corner Watermills of Grudonjci is located in the village of Gradašnica, just two kilometers from the center of Sokobanja, Serbia. These charming watermills, more than two centuries old, hold a special place in the region’s history. The larger watermill has been transformed into an ethno kitchen, where visitors can prepare traditional dishes with the guidance of instructors from the ethnological workshop “Etnos.”

It was time to roll up our sleeves and cook once again. To truly embrace the spirit of slow adventure, you simply must try your hand at preparing local cuisine. Experienced housewives here are the most patient and knowledgeable teachers.

As Mr. Golub recounted how his family purchased these mills in 1833, “for two pairs of oxen and four hectares of land,” Mrs. Vida demonstrated how to make small buns from freshly milled flour. These buns, called kravajčići, are a local specialty. The ones prepared earlier were placed in the fire under a clay bell.

“It only takes flour, salt, yeast, and water. You knead the dough until it’s smooth, let it rise for a while, and then shape it however you like,” Mrs. Vida explained while expertly handling the dough on a traditional wooden plate.

When the aroma of freshly baked buns with their golden-brown crust filled the air and they brought out some homemade cheese, all conversation ceased. How could anyone possibly resist?

Sokobanja Accommodation

Given that Sokobanja has become increasingly rich in content for all ages in recent years, visitor numbers have grown significantly. Visitors enjoy staying on the slopes of the surrounding hills as well as in Sokobanja itself, keeping everything within easy reach. Here’s a link with some suggestions for accommodation in Sokobanja, so you can choose what suits you best. I highly recommend this small hotel, which offers a pool, massages, and excellent food. I found it convenient because it’s right in the center. For those seeking a more luxurious option, there’s no need to think too hard. Click the link to see “Hotel Sunce” or “Ramonda”.

Wherever you choose to stay, a fantastic vacation awaits you in natural surroundings, where you might even hear some unexpected stories.

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