Dubai Creek Cruise

Dubai Creek, which separates the two oldest districts—Deira and Bur Dubai—was home to the first inhabitants of this emirate. After the Baniyas tribe migrated from Abu Dhabi, the new ruler at the time, Sheikh Maktoum bin Hashar al Maktoum, granted various tax concessions to foreign traders towards the end of the 18th century.

This attracted traders who had previously operated through Iran and Sharjah to the newly established port. Even the British trading fleet began using Dubai Creek as its main port in the region from 1903, establishing a direct connection with British India.

Later, Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed al Maktoum introduced another innovation to the bay—he ordered the widening of the Dubai Creek, allowing larger vessels to dock at its pier. Over time, Dubai became a center for import-export trade, particularly known for its gold trade with India. Trade soon became the backbone of Dubai’s rapid development.

Dubai Creek :: Things to See

Wooden dhows

Even today, in the Al Jadaf district at the top of Dubai Creek, you can see how these traditional trading vessels are made. Ships of all sizes emerge from the craft shops and continue to transport goods across the world—everything from spices, gold, and home appliances to large cars.

Along the coast, blue ships line up, one after another, with piles of boxes waiting to be loaded.

While luxury yachts, speedboats, and high-end ships now dominate the bay, the Dubai Creek remains bustling with these old wooden vessels.

Small taxi boats buzz from shore to shore, ferrying curious tourists or locals who live or work across the Dubai Creek.

For just a few dirhams and in under ten minutes, you can travel from Dubai Deira city center to Bur Dubai. Along the coast, there are many anchored ships, modeled after the old trading dhows, but transformed into floating restaurants. You can enjoy dinner while cruising along the Dubai Creek, with prices ranging from 25 to 70 euros, although in summer, you’ll likely be confined to views through the ship’s windows as the temperature rarely drops below 40 degrees Celsius, even at night.

Tourists in the sun

If you’re on a city tour bus, you might be offered a complimentary cruise along Dubai Creek. There’s no better way to experience its lively traffic. However, what they often fail to mention is that the boat departs only once every hour—an important detail, especially if you’re visiting during the scorching summer months.

Here’s why!

 

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Our plan was to cool down on the bus until we reached the boat dock. But when we arrived, our driver kindly pointed out the spot where we were to wait, informing us that the boat had left 15 minutes earlier and the next one was in 45 minutes…

Silence swept through the group of 20 or so tourists. Slowly, people began murmuring, “Did he really say… 45 minutes?!”

(Below you’ll find other options for exploring this bay and possibly cruising along Dubai Creek.)

Imagine: a whitish concrete quay, glowing under the scorching sun. A short, covered passage provides a sliver of shade, perhaps 10 meters long. There’s no one around except for our small group, which is understandable given that it’s almost noon. The line of ship-restaurants along the quay is all closed. Not a single store in sight, and certainly no place with air conditioning! The little water we had was gone within the first quarter of the wait. By the second quarter, tourists had sat down on that burning concrete, trying to catch what little shade was available. The cameras that had snapped a few photos initially were soon packed away as we watched the minutes crawl by, constantly checking the time…

Minarets and Taxi-Boats

Finally, the boat arrived. It was charming, of course, and the group eagerly lined up after what felt like an eternity under the sun.

The staff, as usual, weren’t in any rush. They waited for the boat to dock slowly, tied it down, and then leisurely brought out a small, sagging bridge. Just when you think it’s over and you’ll finally board, it turns out the previous group must disembark first. Again, no one is in a hurry… Cheery tourists emerge from the boat, meeting the sunburned, red-faced crowd waiting outside…

(Here’s an adorable hotel with a view of Dubai Creek, click on the link. It’s a bit on the pricier side, but definitely worth the money, especially if you’re staying for just a few days. Everything is nearby for sightseeing, and you get to enjoy the water view. Below, you can also check out other options on Booking.)

At last, the cruise begins. The boat offers juice and water for about one euro per bottle, ice cream for three euros, and shawarma (for those who can still eat after melting in the heat) for six to eight euros. Inside, it’s pleasantly cool, and Arabic music plays softly as the guide welcomes you aboard and shares fascinating information about Dubai Creek.

Feeling refreshed, we headed up to the shaded open deck. Fortunately, there was a sporadic breeze to enjoy.

As you cruise, the breathtaking view of the bay makes you forget the earlier heat and discomfort. The shores are lined with trading ships, minarets rise in the distance, and taxi boats zip by, their passengers waving. There’s the Heritage Village, where we planned to visit later, and the narrow opening that leads from the Dubai Creek to the wider Gulf, known as both Arabic and Persian.

Sheikh’s House

After the cruise, we disembarked feeling content. Luckily, the bus was already there to welcome us and take us to our next stop.

Upon arrival to Sheikh Saeed al Maktoum House, I noticed no one else seemed interested in visiting. I even passed a British lady returning from the house, whispering to me that “there’s nothing to see.”

I hoped there would be a restroom on the way, and indeed there was—its doors wide open, tiled floors cool underfoot, with two cats lounging in the shade. Perhaps I didn’t have to go just yet after all!

The house itself was quiet and empty. No one was at the entrance to take the ticket. Inside, a lovely courtyard was surrounded by tiny wooden doors marked with “push” signs hanging on chains. One room revealed Qur’anic inscriptions, another had a few traditional chairs and old lanterns.

A guard briefly appeared, waved me towards the upstairs exhibit on calligraphy, and then vanished. The exhibit compared different writing styles, but… that was about it.

Dubai Creek :: Heritage Village

On our way back to the bus station, we made one last stop at the Heritage Village, frequently praised in travel guides for its authentic style, showcasing how people once lived, worked, and socialized. Though it was open to visitors, the place seemed deserted. The sand beneath our feet felt scorching, and the small, twig-made houses and wind towers stood eerily still…

A lone young Arab man sat nearby, sipping coffee and smoking, seemingly unbothered by the heat as he watched me. After asking if I could take a few photos, he nodded, still staring. I quickly snapped a couple of pictures and made a hasty retreat to the station. (Who needs more, right?)

The bus, unsurprisingly, was late. Each passing minute felt like 25 under the relentless sun. I was parched, overheated, and relieved when the bus finally arrived—though, as usual, the driver wasn’t in any rush.

A few days later, when I mentioned the idea of visiting other emirates like Sharjah or Abu Dhabi, the tour guides excitedly recommended visiting their Heritage Villages, too. I just smiled, recalling that sweltering lack of air. And like that young Arab man in the souk, lying on his pile of sacks—remember him? I simply waved it off, thinking: “I don’t understand, and I don’t care.”

Next: HAVING A DRINK IN THE CITY

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